The Long Crosser

I vividly recall the first long crossing shots I encountered at a sporting clays range. After a few stations with standard Midwest fare, such as incoming ducks and quartering grouse, my score was looking good, and I brimmed with confidence. Then my squad mates and I entered a large open cutover, and doubt crept in. We asked to see the bird, and then looked at each other as if to say, “How far was that?” Oh, the target was fast, too. And my scorecard never recovered.

Unless you’re accustomed to shooting long crossing shots, these seemingly instinctive targets can be challenging. They’re a staple at many Southern sporting clays ranges, which have ample open ground and relatively little cover. Northern and Midwest ranges, however, are often carved into woodlands or swamp, and by necessity, most targets—especially crossers—are relatively close. So even experienced skeet and clays shooters can be a bit baffled when trying to figure out the swing and lead required to consistently break relatively far crossing shots.

Getting Started

First, prepare correctly for the target. Foot placement is critical for any crosser but especially so for long, tricky birds. With your feet about shoulder-width, point your front foot (your left, assuming you shoot right-handed) where you intend to break the target, which is typically at its closest point or directly in front of you. Then, place most of your weight—some folks say 75 percent—on your front foot, but make sure to remain balanced and able to move.

At some clays courses, you can’t see the house from where the bird is thrown, so you should pay special attention to picking it up with your eyes as soon as possible. Try to memorize its flight line so you don’t shoulder your gun awkwardly and block out the bird, which typically results in stopping your gun. If you can see the house when the target is thrown, you might be tempted to start your gun too far back toward the house. Don’t, because you’ll have to play catchup on an already tricky chance. Don’t start your gun too far from the house, either, as you won’t have the chance to build any momentum with your barrel as you swing to and through the bird. Find a point somewhere between the house and where you want to break the bird. With the correct starting point, you should have ample time for a smooth, natural pre-mount, mount and swing, with your gun being in perfect position to break the target at the ideal spot.

Execution

When you call pull, remember the basics. As with any crossing shot, your No. 1 concern is to get sufficiently far ahead of that fast-moving bird, slap the trigger and retain good form so your barrel continues through after you pull the trigger. That’s obviously more difficult with long crossers than close chances, which don’t require nearly as much lead.

I can’t tell you how much to lead long crossers. It’s relative, as the correct lead will vary depending on the distance and speed of the clay. If you have a good sight picture from breaking close crossers, such as high-house No. 4 in skeet, increase your lead from there. Doubling it probably isn’t a bad idea. If that doesn’t work, increase your lead farther on the next attempt, as it’s pretty tough to miss a long, swift crosser ahead of the bird. Match the speed of the target, but don’t overthink that equation. That can make you float the bird or ride it out, which often means you’ll get ahead of the target and then stop your gun. Shoot with a natural, fluid motion. Above all, be aggressive, and follow through. When everything is right, your brain will tell your finger when to fire, the gun will continue moving, and you’ll see the clay break out of the corner of your eye as your barrel keeps moving.

With enough practice, long crossing shots will become just another target to which you must adapt. And if you still find crossers that flummox you, don’t fret. Practice, repetition and probably a bit more lead will soon have you in fine form.